How can I repair my rug?
I think you should leave it to us to do the job!
Many clients and visitors of Oldcarpet.com have asked about good repair and restoration services.
We worked hard to answer to their request. At this moment we are offering the following services for your rugs and carpets: 1) Antique Rugs and Tapestry Restoration
2 Fringe Repair & Replacing
3) Rug Reweaving
4) Rips and Slits
5) Color Bleeding
6) Pet Damage(Dog Chewing, Cat Scratching)
7) Cleaning & Washing
8) Blocking(Sizing Old rugs)
9) Appraisal services
10) Moth Proofing
12) Water Damage Restoration
13) Due To High GAS Price We are NO Longer offer Free Pickup and Delivery
*(Currently is not available in Southern California)
14) Free Rug Repair Estimate
Dog Bits Damage
If you want to use our services, we need the following information to be able to give you an appropriate estimate:
1) Two (2) snapshots from front and back of the damage area of your rugs or carpets.
2) Define number of KPSI or RAJ.
3) The type of material in your rug (wool, silk, cotton).[If you know!]
4) The exact dimension of the damaged area.
5) Once we received you item(s), we will contact you with a cost and time estimate.
6) After, you accept our offer, you will have to ship your rugs to us (make sure you get a confirmation number).
7) You will pay for round-trip shipping. You will receive 12 months guarantee on all the repair and restoration.
Please feel free to contact us if you have any question or suggestion.
1) What is the cost of repair?
Answer: nbsp;We do not know until we see the size and type of damage. Our price is very competitive and our workmanship is excellent.
2) I do not have a digital camera or scanner to send you digital pictures, what should I do?
Answer: Just take your regular camera and take two snapshots and send us the pictures with all the other required information to us. Do not forget, we need to know:
1) Size of the damaged area. 2) Type of materials (Silk, Wool) You can send all the above information to us:
Brea, CA 92822
Please do not forget your email address and telephone number. We will contact you with proper estimate and all the required steps.
3) How long dose it take to fix my rugs?
Answer: Usually it takes between 1 to 2 weeks for regular repair after we receive your rug. We will inform you when your rug will be ready. We will walk you through the process.
4) How good is your restoration process?
Answer: Our Masterweavers are expert in the field. They are in charge of restoration of rugs and carpets in Germany museums before coming to the US. They have 25 years solid experience on repair and restoration and re-coloration of oriental rugs, tapestries and other textiles. All of his repairs have 12 months guaranteed and your satisfaction is 100% guaranteed. We will add more pictures of his current jobs in near future.
5) Do you fix the color bleeding in my rugs?
Answer: Yes! We are able to remove the color bleeding and spots removing out of your beautiful rugs and carpets.
6) Do you wash my rugs?
Answer: We Yes! We are able to wash your rug. Just contact us and we do the rest.
7) What are the main damage happen to the rugs and carpets?
Answer: Most common problems are:
Water Damage (Flood, water damage from plants and pots left on the top of rugs for a long time)
1) Dog and Cat bites
2) Moth Damage
3) Spilling Wine, Chocolate
4) Color Bleeding due to the improper wash
The list is long and it will be many other things that could go wrong with your beautiful rugs. Do not panic; Just contact us we will take care of it!
8) Do you fix tapestries too?
Answer: Yes! Our experts are able to fix your tapestries.
9) Can you use Scotchgard Carpet Protector for oriental rugs?
Answer: Scotchgard™ recomends that do not use Scotchgard™ Carpet Protector for on oriental rugs. They have found the variability between manufacturers and the occasional use of food dyes can produce unusual and unpredictable results. (More)
10) I do have a very large rug, would you send your team to my house?
Answer: If you do live in Southern California (100 miles from Los Angeles), we are able to appraise your rug at your place for a nominal fee. However, We do have free pickup and delivery for repair in Southern California. If you live in Argentina, Unfortunately we do not to have global service yet to send to your house, but we are working on that! Check the damage, stains, odors, any do not be shy to ask question!
Clothes and Rugs Moths
Clothes and Rugs moths larvae feed on wool, feathers, fur, hair, leather, lint, dust, paper, and occasionally cotton, linen, silk, and synthetic fibers.
They are especially damaging to fabric or rugs stained with beverages, urine, oil from hair, and sweat. Most damage is done to articles left undisturbed for a long time, such as old military uniforms and blankets, wool upholstery, feathered hats, antique dolls and toys, natural bristle brushes, weavings, wall hangings, piano felts, old furs, and especially wool carpets under heavy furniture and clothing in storage.
Common Name Scientific Name
Webbing Clothes Moth- Tineola bisselliella (Hummel)
Casemaking Clothes Moth- Tinea pellionella (Linnaeus)
Carpet or Tapestry Moth- Trichophaga tapetzella (Linnaeus)
Identification Adult webbing clothes moths have a wingspread of about 1/2-inch. The body is about 1/4-inch long with wings folded and golden-yellow with a satiny sheen. A tuft of hairs on the head is upright and reddish-gold. Eggs are oval, ivory, and about 1/24-inch long.
Larvae are a shiny, creamy white with a brown head, up to 1/2-inch long. The larvae spin long threads and construct tunnels of silk.
Adult casemaking clothes moths have a 1/2-inch wingspread. Forewings are yellowish-brown, and there are usually three distinct, dark dots on the outer third of each wing. Hind wings are smaller, lighter, and fringed with hair and scales.
Eggs are whitish, and larvae are opaque-white with brown heads. The larva spins a small silken case around itself and carries it while feeding.
Adult carpet or tapestry moths are larger than webbing or casemaking clothes moths at 1/3- to 5/12-inch long with a 3/4-inch wingspread. Adults have white heads, with the first third of the front wings black and the lower two-thirds creamy white. Hind wings are pale gray. Larvae are small, creamy white caterpillars with dark heads.
Life Cycle and Habits
Clothes moths rarely fly to lights at night and instead prefer darkness, such as a closet or storage chest. Any clothes moths fluttering around the house are probably males, because females travel by either running, hopping, or trying to hide in the folds of clothing. Female webbing clothes moths lay 40 to 50 eggs that hatch in 4 to 21 days. Larvae like to feed on soiled material, spinning silken mats or tunnels and incorporating textile fragments and bits of fecal pellets. Larvae will wander some distance away from their food source to pupate in crevices. The pupa case is silken with bits of fiber and excrement attached to the outside. The life cycle is about 65 to 90 days.
The casemaking clothes moth is less common than the webbing clothes moth. Larvae spin a small silken case around themselves as they feed. This cigar-shaped case enlarges as the larva grows. When crawling, the larva's head, thorax, and three pairs of legs, outside the case, drag it along. It does not spin a web of silk over the food material but eats clean-cut holes, not usually in one spot. Females live about 30 days and lay 100 to 300 eggs. The larva stage lasts 50 or more days, and the pupal stage is passed in the case or cocoon. There are about 2 generations a year.
Adult carpet or tapestry moths are rarely found. Females lay 50 to 100 eggs in a lifetime, and the larva develops in about 3 months as it builds silken tubes or burrows through infested materials, such as hair-stuffed furniture, tapestries, old carpets, furs, and feathers.
Clothes moth development is greatly influenced by humidity. About 75-percent relative humidity in a heated, dark room is ideal.
Locate the source of infestation before treatment. Examine closets and stored goods for larvae cases, moths, and damage. Larvae prefer to feed in secluded, dark places. Use a flashlight and nail file to check for woolen lint and hair under baseboards, in and under seldom moved upholstered furniture, in air ducts, in carpets at the corners of the room and along edges, in stored clothing, and in other places not readily accessible. Check furs or feathers, such as stuffed birds or animal heads, antique feather beds, or felt in pianos, woolen scrap piles, etc. Adult moths do not feed in fabrics, but may be seen in darkened corners at night.
Good housekeeping is critical for preventing or controlling clothes moth damage. Never allow clothing, rugs, etc. to lie in a neglected pile. Regular use of a strong suction vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to remove lint, hair, and dust from floor cracks, baseboards, air ducts, carpets, and upholstered furniture is necessary. Keep closets and dresser drawers clean. Regularly clean rugs where they fit close to the baseboards and under the quarter round. Inspect stored foods and eliminate bird nests and dead rodents. Launder and dry clean or steam clean clothes and other items before storage. Egg-laying clothes moths are attracted to soiled articles. Ironing will also destroy all stages of clothes moths. Sun, brush, and expose clothing to the weather. Outdoors, bright, hot sunlight, and wind will reduce larvae and damage. Frequent use of woolens and other animal fiber clothing almost assures no damage from clothes moth larvae.
Cedar-lined chests and closets are not 100 percent effective. The natural cedar oil evaporates and a fresh treatment of cedar oil should be applied every two years. Be sure that all cloth goods be dry cleaned, washed, pressed with a hot iron, sunned, or brushed prior to storage in an airtight container with an effective moth repellent.
Constant light illumination in the closet may discourage moths. Use tight-fitting doors. Try suspending wall to floor cotton drapes in front of clothing to keep dust and moths away. Fur storage in cold vaults is effective. Moth-proofing when woolens are manufactured may be effective forever, whereas treatments at dry cleaners are less permanent and need to be renewed regularly.
Freezing has been successfully used to control clothes moths. Place fabric in polyethylene bags, squeeze all air out to minimize condensation, and deep freeze the materials for three days. Infested antique objects should be either fumigated or deep frozen by an experienced licensed pest control operator.
It is best not to treat clothing with insecticides due to possible damage to the garments. All cracks and crevices in infested areas should be treated with a residual insecticide. After thoroughly cleaning rugs, rug pads, under heavy furniture, and carpets, especially around the edges, dust with bendiocarb (Ficam D) under the edges of carpeting, cracks in closets, under baseboard, and molding or other hiding places. Any wall void that might contain old rodent, bird, or insect nests should be drilled and dusted.
Sprays of pyrethrins (Exciter, Kicker, Pyrenone) and permethrin can be used as spot treatments to kill any moths that might alight or wandering larvae. Do not treat clothing. The licensed pest control operator or applicator can use sprays of bendiocarb (Ficam W), bendiocarb + pyrethrins (Ficam Plus), cyfluthrin (Tempo), or tralomethrin (Saga) in such places. Infested stuffed furniture and other salvageable commodities should be fumigated by a licensed pest control operator or applicator. Before using any insecticides, always read the label directions and follow safety precautions.
Courtsy of Ohio State University- Entomology